A colleague of mine here at school, teaches an entire unit about the danger of the Disney Empire. Now she is umm,
passionately liberal, and so I thought perhaps that she was a bit paranoid. I had been to Disneyland twice as a kid, I have seen my fair share of Disney movies (including OMG
High School Musical), and even the Broadway verson of Lion King. But an evil empire?
That was before I stayed at Walt Disney World for a week. Ironically enough the conference I was at was addressing how schools can help bridge the gap for poor students. And I was in a place designed to squeeze the most money out of families.
WDW seems to be a corporate city within a city. One of my colleagues at the conference said it was like a corporate Vatican. Once you crossed into their land, everything was different. The street signs all have Mickey ears on them. There are no visible signs of infrastructure (apparently it's all underground) and it's sparkling clean.
The first problem that I had was the maps. Maps given out at the hotel only had a few streets shown inside WDW, so I went straight to the Disney store located inside my hotel. But those maps are more artistic renditions of buildings - most unlabeledwith a few roads. There are 4 theme parks, 3 water parks, one very big marketplace with restaurants and stores and clubs, apparently 5 golf courses, and what seems to be 15-20 resorts each with their own restaurants, bars and shops. (This does not count the 6 hotels that are on WDW land, including my hotel, the Hilton) Everything is far enough away from everything else that it is not walkable.
What if you wanted to find something specific like a sports bar, or a hair salon? Could you easily look on a Disney map and find where to go? Absolutely not. Although the entire place is run and owned by the same corporation, and they obviously have a complicated system in place to clean and staff the entire place, getting around and finding things is not part of what they help you with.
As an example, on our second evening after our conference, we decided to try and visit one of the theme parks, eat dinner and watch Monday Night Football. Disney owns ABC, which owns ESPN so clearly there would be a ESPN Zone or someplace like that. The problem was that no one seemed to know if there were one anywhere. Not at the Disney store at our hotel, not at Downtown Disney(the huge marketplace), not at WDW MGM Studios (the theme park). So we went to these places and tried to have fun, but it was getting later and later and we hadn't eaten and couldn't find a sports bar. Several Disney "cast members" (any employee, from janitor to CEO apparently) said something like "oh yeah - I think there is one in this one place." But either they couldn't tell us how to get there, or there was no sports bar when we did.
Finally we left MGM Studios theme park at 10pm and headed toward the buses (more about that later) and one of the guys directing people to the buses told us to get on a boat and get off at the Boardwalk (whatever that was), and walk to the end and there was one. And we did - and it was there. A
HUGE ESPN bar with big signs out front advertising MNF. It was a miracle.
It turns out "The Boardwalk" is one of those many Disney resorts on the property. And as I said, each one has a different theme, different shops and restaurants. And none of them seem to know what is located at the other ones.
So the maps are confusing and unhelpful. But wait there's more. Maybe because it was built over wetlands, or maybe just to be special, the roads are windy and illogical. Those street signs with Mickey ears were very confusing. It's hard to explain just why they were so confusing - I just could never figure out where we were - and I am a good navigator. It didn't match the maps at all (roads, scale, buildings) and the signs were not consistent. I can imagine if a family were in a car, then there would be a lot of chasing your own tail.
If you didn't have a car, there were Disney buses that went between all of the resorts, theme parks and water parks. There were different buses that went from the 6 special hotels and the theme parks. There were boats that went between some of the theme parks and some of the resorts. Every time we got on any of these, it seemed to take 45 minutes to get anywhere. It really did seem like they wanted you to get lost. (No transportation out of the WDW boundary except by car/taxi)
And then there was cost. For one person over the age of 9 to go to one theme park it was $71. (Age 3-9 it's $60) And to visit more than theme park in one day or to go to the water parks as well you could add that for $45 more. But apparently there are many ways to get around this. We did by going after 4pm (special conference price) and so the cost was only $43. (
Only $43? Like that's a huge bargain?) Apparently if you go multiple days it gets cheaper the more days you go, and there are coupons and stuff. But we started trying to calculate what a family of four would pay to go, calculating food, toys, hotel. It boggled the mind.
There was some stuff I liked. Once I got to the theme park, the 3 rides I went on ($14.33 a ride btw) weren't bad. I had been looking forward to going on "Star Tours" since it came out when I was 16. Man I woulda loved that when I was 16. But it has not been updated, either with Star Wars story or new ride technology since 1988 - so a little bit of a letdown.
In the middle of Downtown Disney there is a group of nightclubs - the area is called "Pleasure Island." On my last evening we went and got the $22 wristband so we could visit each one (pretty good bargain actually). Comedy club, 70's and 80's music, BET, and one that was a mix of top 40 music were the ones we went to and they were pretty good. (The other two were a techno club and one called "The Adventurer's Club" which from the outside looked like the set of Indiana Jones) Good music, good dancing, strong drinks. Very different personalities in each one.
Little incongruous to be at BET listen to hard core hip-hop and pass a door that says "Cast Members Only" on the way to the bathroom. And when they shut the clubs down, some of the conversations I heard around me were umm, kinda un-Disney like. But hell - they are the ones who named it Pleasure Island.
One evening I took it upon myself to get a haircut. Instead of wandering around like for the sports bar, I decided to call around. None of the Disney literature had the phone numbers, but I did get out the yellow pages and matching up the names of the resorts on one of the maps with the names of the resorts in the phone book, I called around. I was unsuccessful in finding a place that could cut my hair with my schedule. But I did find out that many of the employees (oops I mean cast members) would end their conversation with "Have a Magical Day!" What the heck do you say to that in response?
I finally found a place that I could walk to that was
off WDW land, amazingly enough. A strip mall across the street that was the boundary. It was a relief - straight roads, garbage cans, no cast members. I did find out that people in Orlando seem to be really friendly even if they aren't part of Disney. And the people at the salon explained to me the love/hate relationship the town has with the place. The guy who cut my hair likes it so much he lives in Celebration, Florida, a Disney planned town. But the makeup lady called the whole thing "Stepford" and was creeped out by it.
I did enjoy myself but it felt like I had to put some basic travel beliefs aside. No trying to walk everywhere to get a feel for the place, or look for a local authentic restaurant. No control over transportation or navigation. Just enter this world, be prepared to pay a lot everywhere, and spend a lot of time getting anywhere. Have a magical day!!